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South of Huntington

From movie stars to architectural wonders, this often-overlooked neighborhood is a big part of South Pasadena's history

When I first moved to South Pasadena, I thought the city’s southernmost border was Huntington Drive. It’s a logical assumption: Huntington is a major thoroughfare. It seems like some kind of line of demarcation.

As it turns out, the corner of Huntington and Fair Oaks was once the junction of the Pasadena Short Line and the Monrovia Line -- two important Big Red Car trolley routes. After Henry E. Huntington incorporated the Pacific Electric Railway Company in 1901, he began work on what would eventually develop into the largest interurban electric rail system in the world.

The mission-style depot at Huntington and Fair Oaks was named Oneonta Station, after Huntington’s birthplace in New York. The Pasadena Short Line connected Pasadena to Los Angeles, the Monrovia Line connected Monrovia to Los Angeles, and the two routes met at Oneonta Station. Needless to say, Huntington and Fair Oaks became an important transportation hub, and the surrounding residential area became an early 20th century version of “freeway close.“

In 1903 the Huntington Land and Improvement Company created the subdivision of Oneonta Park to take advantage of location, location, location. This South Pasadena neighborhood targeted potential residents who not only wanted the convenience afforded by the Big Red Cars but who longed for “what is artistic” and who might “appreciate the opportunities here afforded for home building.”

William R. Staats, one of Huntington’s colleagues, made a prediction. “Gardens shall bloom here,” he said. “Rioting with roses and passion flowers; beauty shall prevail -- and hundreds of home seekers will be eager to seize upon this opportunity of finding such a resting place from the turmoil and stress of business life.”

As it turned out, Staats was right. “Watch us Grow!“ was South Pasadena’s official city slogan, and it was fitting. In 1901, South Pas had a population of 1,001 people. By 1910, the number had increased to 4,659 -- a rate of growth exceeded only by three other cities in California. By 1920, the population nearly doubled to 7,652. Many South Pasadena homes were built during this boom period, and you‘ll find hundreds of them south of Huntington Drive.

If you think the Marengo area near has cornered the market on houses, you haven’t explored the southern blocks of Fletcher, Primrose and Bushnell. You’ll find magnificent examples of bungalow architecture here, on streets overflowing with lush, mature trees. Some of the trees date all the way back to the late 1880's when a group of South Pasadena residents made it their goal to plant 1000 trees.

You’ll notice the streets running parallel to Huntington are aptly named: Spruce, Laurel and Oak. Those aren’t the only varieties of you’ll find here. There are also hundreds of camphors, sycamores, elms, maples, magnolias, deodars, pines, pepper trees, eucalyptus trees and palms. (I should have realized Huntington Drive wasn’t the border of South Pas. Alhambra definitely doesn’t have that many trees.)

While the neighborhood south of Huntington isn’t as famous as , it has a similar connection. The prestigious architectural firm of Greene and Greene designed the Oaklawn subdivision, leaving their mark most notably with the beautiful Oaklawn bridge. But one of the Greene brothers left a little bit of Craftsman history south of Huntington, too.

On a modest stretch of Alhambra Road you will find one of the few remaining houses designed by Henry Greene. In 1923, Henry was commissioned to build a simple home for South Pasadena resident Lloyd E. Morrison. It has been modified over the years, but you can still see Greene hallmarks in the porch beams and classic Craftsman lines. This is not a mansion or a museum piece, it’s exactly what the Greenes wanted their homes to be: a comfortable place to live and a structure that blends unassumingly into the landscape. It’s a home designed not to be looked at as much as to be lived in.

Film and TV buffs will be interested in a few other Craftsman homes in this part of South Pas. While the block of Bushnell just north of Huntington may lay claim to the most on one street (Back to the Future 1 and 2, Teen Wolf, Ghost Dad, Old School, and Thirtysomething, just to name a few) the block of Fletcher south of Huntington has been the setting for several films and TV productions, too. The house from 90s sitcom Step by Step is here, and it looks almost exactly like it did on the show. The house from the romantic comedy 13 Going on 30 is here, too. In the film, it was painted pink, but now it’s back to its original neutral palette. (The homeowners, however, left one brick pink. It’s part of a post near the garage.)

Those are nice details for your average show biz nerd, but Fletcher Avenue’s real entertainment street cred comes from the fact that one of the biggest stars of Hollywood’s golden age grew up here. 1930 census records list 1911 Fletcher as the residence of 11 year old William Beedle -- William Holden’s name before Paramount Pictures changed it. (The rent at the time was $62.50 a month. The census report also made note that the house had a radio.)

Unfortunately, the home of America’s original Golden Boy no longer exists. At some point, 1911 Fletcher Avenue became part of the parking lot behind Huntington Cleaners. But the rest of the street looks a lot like it did back in the days when a radio was advanced technology. You can walk along the sidewalk and imagine a young Holden sitting on the curb, practicing lines from his first big play at The Playbox -- a small theater owned by the director of Pasadena Playhouse. If you listen closely, you can almost hear his mother’s oft-repeated plea to “date only South Pasadena girls! They’re not corrupted like those poor souls in the movie business!”

There’s nothing corrupted about this lovely, often overlooked part of South Pasadena. It’s quiet and comforting. Over the years, new buildings have sprung up as South Pasadena continued to grow. You’ll find quaint, mid-century apartments and modern 80's office buildings. The Pacific Electric Railway line is long gone, along with Oneonta Station, but the dreams of South Pasadena’s pioneers have endured, right along with many of the trees they planted. Sandwiched between Huntington Drive and Alhambra, this neighborhood is exactly what Staats envisioned for the area over 100 years ago: a comfortable, beautiful place to live “under the shadows of the wide-spreading oaks … where the oleanders and magnolia bloom.”

For Laurie Allee’s photographic tour of the neighborhood south of Huntington, click on the video in the photo box above.

For detailed project drawings of the Lloyd E. Morrison house designed by Henry Greene, click here.

Petrea Burchard February 16, 2011 at 03:37 PM
I love the juxtaposition of yesterday upon today, Laurie. Thanks for giving me the visuals so well.
Margaret Finnegan February 16, 2011 at 04:41 PM
Don't forget La France: Little Folkers was filmed there. Parenthood is filmed there. Stuff is filmed there all the time.
Dixie Jane Chapman February 16, 2011 at 04:57 PM
I love the text and video. Makes me wish I could be there.
Elizabeth Short February 16, 2011 at 05:14 PM
Thanks for showing my building, the one that houses Huntington Cleaners. My father owned Pool's Pharmacy and the property has been in the family since 1963.
Lee Bothast February 16, 2011 at 08:56 PM
In architecture school, an emotional "line of demarcation" was called a "psychological barrier", as opposed to a physical barrier. Such streets as Huntington, Fair Oaks, and Fremont could all be defined as "psychological barriers" within South Pasadena. Many homeowners and home buyers percieve these to be borders of some sort and chose neighborhoods based on this psychology. Thanks for discussing it and breaking down those "psychological barriers" for the more logical ones arounds! Great article!
Ron Rosen February 17, 2011 at 01:22 AM
It is difficult to keep in mind that part of South Pasadena is below Huntington. It's even worse for San Marino. I had a friend who was raised in baja San Marino. I don't think she ever got over it. Great article and photos, Laurie.
Kathy February 17, 2011 at 05:06 AM
A wonderful "trip" to south of Huntington, Laurie!!!
Judy Williams February 17, 2011 at 01:32 PM
I like that I am rediscovering a part of your city with which I'm not as familiar as some of the others. The shot with the sidewalk - and the way the "stones" are laid out is cool - instead of big poured sheets of concrete, they are much smaller squares perfectly fit together like a neatly assembled quilt. The row of pink blooming trees makes me want spring RIGHT NOW!! Great informative post. I always look forward to finding out more about the history of SP!!
Dollie February 17, 2011 at 04:25 PM
Thanks for the article South of Huntington, but hopefully you will do a follow-up on Fremont Ave. south of Huntington. I would like to know more about the Estate Properties that once were (and some still are) a block or so north Alhambra Rd. on the east side. I remember the ALLEN ESTATE (on the West side) which was torn down in the 50's to make way for the large development of small homes. The river rock wall is still there. IF only Fremont Ave. was the way it was and not the current "So. Pas Freeway " which seems to be the only alternative for trucks and cars to travel from Alhambra to Pasadena it would be easier to get out of our driveways and for guests exit their cars when visiting.
Elizabeth Short February 17, 2011 at 06:09 PM
Fletcher is getting busier every day, people drive way too fast. I call Huntington Dr. "Huntington Speedway."
Robert kim February 23, 2011 at 12:35 AM
One of the interesting things about owning an old home is the history one can dig up during the escrow process. A title report for my home in Alhambra turned out an agreement dated in 1907 that eventually became La Marguerita Tract, between Adolph and Bertha Graffen and Edmund Lincoln. 4 acres sold for $10 in gold coins. The tract, I've since read, was named after one of Adolph and Bertha's daughters, Marguerite, who, as far as I can tell, was the notary who notarized the agreement between the Graffens and Lincoln. I think about that every time I walk by their house on Pine St, on my way to Ralphs to pick up groceries.
Julie Hill March 02, 2011 at 01:26 AM
A great article Laurie! Thanks so much for sharing.
Simon Chambers April 27, 2011 at 06:33 PM
Wow Laurie!! I had no idea about the history of what was my own neighborhood for many many years!!! My family owned 2075 Fletcher Avenue which is the very last house in So. Pasadena, right on the very corner of the city!! Thank you for such a wonderful video which has brought back so many fond memories for my family and I!
Elizabeth Short April 27, 2011 at 07:03 PM
Hi Simon, Trudy here!

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